Laghi Malinvern e della Paur: un'escursione nell'appartato Vallone di Riofreddo
La salita al Lago Malinvern e ai Laghi della Paur, pur nella sua semplicità, permette di raggiungere luoghi appartati e di una selvaggia bellezza ai piedi delle alte cime di Valrossa e della Testa del Malinvern, una montagna posta al confine italo/francese che sfiora i 3000 metri.
Indice dei contenuti
Dove siamo: il Vallone di Riofreddo
I Laghi Malinvern e della Paur si trovano nel Vallone di Riofreddo, una solitaria e selvaggia valle secondaria della frequentatissima Valle Stura di Demonte.Situata nel cuore delle Alpi Marittime, è una zona caratterizzata da una ricca vegetazione ed ampie fioritue primaverili, con un ventaglio di suggestivi bacini alpini posti di luoghi appartati, in alcuni casi impegnativamente accessibili, ma sempre di un'estrema bellezza.
Accesso al Vallone di Riofreddo
Per raggiungere il Vallone di Riofreddo occorre percorrere la Valle Stura di Demonte fino a Vinadio dove s'imbocca la strada per il Colle della Lombarda.Arrivati all'altezza del casotto dell'ex-dogana, svoltare sulla stretta via sinistra che segna l'imbocco del vallone e seguirla fra pascoli e boschi lasciandosi alla sinistra la diga del Lago di Riofreddo.
Ci si ferma una volta giunti ad uno spiazzo con fontana in pietra. Da quel punto in poi la strada è chiusa al traffico.
L'itinerario dell'escursione
La salita al Lago Malinvern e ai Laghi della Paur è un'escursione che non presenta particolari difficoltà, si sviluppa su circa 14 km in andata con un dislivello di poco più di 800 metri d'altitudine.L'itinerario parte dalla comoda rotabile chiusa al traffico e risale con lieve pendenza il Vallone di Riofreddo entrando in un ombreggiato e piacevole bosco di conifere lasciandosi sempre alla sinistra l'impetuoso Rio Freddo.
Trascurando i due sentieri sulla destra che vanno ai laghi Nero e Martel ed il successivo che entra nel Vallone dell'Aver, si prosegue fino ad incontrare il Gias la Grotta (1700 m.). La strada diventa di nuovo asfaltata e costringe ad una ripida salita prima di vedere comparire il Rifugio Malinvern o Rifugio Città di Ceva, una struttura a due piani in muratura situata su un poggio panoramico, caratterizzata da un'ampia vetrata sulla facciata.
Il tracciato prosegue lungo il sentiero che parte al limite del bosco di conifere e scende sulle rive del rio che attraversa su una nuova passerella in legno.
Da qui, svoltando a sinistra, inizia la salita costante a zig zag fra radi larici e balze rocciose fino a giungere all'ampia spalla prativa oltre alla quale già si scorge il Lago Malinvern (2122 m.).
Il Lago Malinvern
E' uno specchio d'acqua alpino piuttosto ampio e suggestivo, nato dall’escavazione glaciale ed incassato tra austere pareti di roccia. Nelle sue acque, di un blu intenso e da cui affiorano alcuni isolotti formati da una costa rocciosa che emerge a tratti, si rispecchia la cima della Testa del Malinvern.
Ad un capo del Lago Malinvern scende una cascata che lo alimenta.
Per raggiungere i Laghi della Paur occorre lasciare il Lago Malinvern sulla destra ed imboccare un sentiero a tratti poco evidenti seguendo le tracce bianco-rosse e gli ometti in pietra che via via si palesano.
Man mano che salite tra prati e larghi massi non dimenticate di voltarvi indietro per ammirare dall'alto la bellezza del grande lago.
Tutto intorno sarete circondati da un magnifico panorama a 360° sulle cime e, facendo attenzione, scorgerete due piccoli laghetti che danno orgine alla cascatella nel Malinvern.
Si supera un torrentello e con un ultimo sforzo in salita si arriva nella conca che ospita il primo Lago della Paur, il più piccolo.
Basta fare qualche passo in più sui massi per scorgere anche il secondo Lago della Paur (2356 m.), il più grande.
I Laghi Paur
Sono due bacini naturali posti a pochi metri di distanza tanto da sembrare laghi gemelli.
Si trovano su una sorta di balconata ai piedi della Rocca della Paur e delle cime di Valrossa che offre un panorama notevole sul Monte Aver, il Malinvern e la cima della Lombarda.
Essendo una meta poco frequentata se si ha la fortuna di capitare in settimana è possibile godersi questa meravigliosa natura in completa solitudine.
Il ritorno avviene per lo stesso itinerario dell'andata.
Se non l'avete fatto in precedenza, non dimenticate di fermarvi sulle rive del Lago Malinvern, costeggiandolo per almeno un tratto per godere appieno della sua bellezza da diversi punti di vista.
Variante all'escursione: il Colletto di Valscura
Chi volesse ampliare l'escursione potrebbe prendere in considerazione l'ascesa al Colletto di Valscura, passo montano a 2526 metri che mette in comunicazione il Vallone di Riofreddo con la Valle Gesso ed il ed il Parco delle Alpi Marittime.
Dopo aver percorso la sponda occidentale e meridionale del lago, imboccare il sentiero segnato che con lunghi tornanti supera pietraie e ripidi traversi fino a ritrovarsi in cima con il bel panorama sul Massiccio dell'Argentera e, in basso, il Lago inferiore di Valscura.
Scheda tecnica dell'escursione
⚠️ Difficoltà: E
⏳ Durata totale: 3 ore
🧗♀️ Dislivello: quasi 850 metri
⇌ Lunghezza: circa 14 km
➡️ Punto di partenza: parcheggio quota 1510 metri
⬅️ Punto di arrivo: Laghi della Paur 2356 metri
🏠 Rifugi e/o bivacchi: Rifugio Malinvern 1839 metri
🛣️ Segnaletica: P13 da Rif.Malinvern a Lago Malinvern/Colletto di Valscura
Malinver and Paur Lakes: a trekking in the hidden Riofreddo Valley
The ascent to Malinvern Lake and to Paur Lakes , despite its simplicity, allows you to reach secluded places and a wild beauty at the feet of the high peaks of Valrossa and Testa del Malinvern, a mountain located at Italian / French border that reaches 3000 meters. Malinvern and Paur lakes are located in the Riofreddo valley, a solitary and wild secondary valley of the very popular Stura Valley.
Located in the heart of the Maritime Alps, it is an area characterized by rich vegetation and large spring flowers, with a range of suggestive alpine basins set in secluded places, in some cases challenging to access, but always of extreme beauty. To reach the Riofreddo Valley it is necessary to cross the Stura Valley up to Vinadio where you have to take the road to Lombarda Pass.
Arrived at the ex-customs hut, turn onto the narrow left road that marks the entrance to the valley and follow it through pastures and woods, leaving the dam of Riofreddo Lake on the left.
Stop once you reach a clearing with a stone fountain. From that point on, the road is closed to traffic.
The ascent to Malinvern Lake and the Paur Lakes is an hike that does not present particular difficulties, spread over about 14 km outward with a difference in height of just over 800 meters above sea level.
The trail starts from the carriage road closed to traffic and climbs gently up the Riofreddo Valley entering a shady and pleasant coniferous forest, always leaving the impetuous Rio Freddo to the left.
Neglecting the two paths on the right that go to the Nero and Martel lakes and the next one that enters in the Aver valley, continue until you reach the Gias la Grotta (1700 m.). The road becomes paved again and forces you to climb steeply before seeing the Malinvern Refuge or Città di Ceva Refuge, a two-storey masonry structure located on a panoramic hill, characterized by a large window on the facade.
The hike continues along the path that starts at the edge of the coniferous forest and descends on the banks of the river that crosses on a new wooden walkway.
From here, turning left, the constant zigzag climb begins between sparse larches and rocky crags until you reach the wide grassy shoulder beyond which you can already see the Malinvern Lake (2122 m.).
It is a rather large and suggestive stretch of alpine water, born from the glacial excavation and set between austere rock walls. In its waters, of an intense blue and from which emerge some islets formed by a rocky coast that emerges at times, the top of the Testa del Malinvern is reflected.
At the end side of Malinvern Lake a waterfall flows down and feeds it.
You can choose whether to go down to the lake or to continue the track leaving its exploration on the way back. The descent takes no more than 5 minutes, but has an elevation gain of 50 meters.
To reach the Paur Lakes you need to leave Malinvern Lake on the right and take a path sometimes not very evident following the white-red traces and the stone cairns that gradually reveal themselves.
As you climb through meadows and large boulders, don't forget to look back to admire the beauty of the great lake from above.
All around you will be surrounded by a magnificent 360° view of the peaks and, paying attention, you will see two small lakes that give origin to the waterfall in Malinvern Lake.
Pass a small stream and with a last uphill effort you arrive in the basin that houses the first Paur Lake, the smallest.
Just take a few more steps on the boulders to see the second Paur Lake ( 2356 m.), the largest.
Paur Lakes are two natural basins located a few meters away so as to look like twin lakes.
They are located on a sort of balcony at the foot of the Rocca della Paur and the peaks of Valrossa which offers a remarkable view of Mount Aver, Malinvern and the top of the Lombarda.
Being a little frequented destination, if you are lucky enough to come during the week, you can enjoy this wonderful nature in complete solitude.
The return takes place along the same route as the outward journey.
If you haven't done so before, don't forget to stop by the Lake Malinvern, skirting it for at least a stretch to fully enjoy its beauty from different points of view. If you would like to extend the hike you could consider the ascent to Colletto di Valscura , mountain pass at 2526 meters that connects the Riofreddo Valley with the Gesso Valley and the Park Maritime Alps.
After having crossed the western and southern shores of the lake, take the marked path that with long hairpin bends overcomes stony ground and steep traverses until you reach the top with the beautiful view of the Argentera Massif and, below, the Lower Valscura Lake.
The ascent to Malinvern Lake and to Paur Lakes , despite its simplicity, allows you to reach secluded places and a wild beauty at the feet of the high peaks of Valrossa and Testa del Malinvern, a mountain located at Italian / French border that reaches 3000 meters. Malinvern and Paur lakes are located in the Riofreddo valley, a solitary and wild secondary valley of the very popular Stura Valley.
Located in the heart of the Maritime Alps, it is an area characterized by rich vegetation and large spring flowers, with a range of suggestive alpine basins set in secluded places, in some cases challenging to access, but always of extreme beauty. To reach the Riofreddo Valley it is necessary to cross the Stura Valley up to Vinadio where you have to take the road to Lombarda Pass.
Arrived at the ex-customs hut, turn onto the narrow left road that marks the entrance to the valley and follow it through pastures and woods, leaving the dam of Riofreddo Lake on the left.
Stop once you reach a clearing with a stone fountain. From that point on, the road is closed to traffic.
The ascent to Malinvern Lake and the Paur Lakes is an hike that does not present particular difficulties, spread over about 14 km outward with a difference in height of just over 800 meters above sea level.
The trail starts from the carriage road closed to traffic and climbs gently up the Riofreddo Valley entering a shady and pleasant coniferous forest, always leaving the impetuous Rio Freddo to the left.
Neglecting the two paths on the right that go to the Nero and Martel lakes and the next one that enters in the Aver valley, continue until you reach the Gias la Grotta (1700 m.). The road becomes paved again and forces you to climb steeply before seeing the Malinvern Refuge or Città di Ceva Refuge, a two-storey masonry structure located on a panoramic hill, characterized by a large window on the facade.
The hike continues along the path that starts at the edge of the coniferous forest and descends on the banks of the river that crosses on a new wooden walkway.
From here, turning left, the constant zigzag climb begins between sparse larches and rocky crags until you reach the wide grassy shoulder beyond which you can already see the Malinvern Lake (2122 m.).
It is a rather large and suggestive stretch of alpine water, born from the glacial excavation and set between austere rock walls. In its waters, of an intense blue and from which emerge some islets formed by a rocky coast that emerges at times, the top of the Testa del Malinvern is reflected.
At the end side of Malinvern Lake a waterfall flows down and feeds it.
You can choose whether to go down to the lake or to continue the track leaving its exploration on the way back. The descent takes no more than 5 minutes, but has an elevation gain of 50 meters.
To reach the Paur Lakes you need to leave Malinvern Lake on the right and take a path sometimes not very evident following the white-red traces and the stone cairns that gradually reveal themselves.
As you climb through meadows and large boulders, don't forget to look back to admire the beauty of the great lake from above.
All around you will be surrounded by a magnificent 360° view of the peaks and, paying attention, you will see two small lakes that give origin to the waterfall in Malinvern Lake.
Pass a small stream and with a last uphill effort you arrive in the basin that houses the first Paur Lake, the smallest.
Just take a few more steps on the boulders to see the second Paur Lake ( 2356 m.), the largest.
Paur Lakes are two natural basins located a few meters away so as to look like twin lakes.
They are located on a sort of balcony at the foot of the Rocca della Paur and the peaks of Valrossa which offers a remarkable view of Mount Aver, Malinvern and the top of the Lombarda.
Being a little frequented destination, if you are lucky enough to come during the week, you can enjoy this wonderful nature in complete solitude.
The return takes place along the same route as the outward journey.
If you haven't done so before, don't forget to stop by the Lake Malinvern, skirting it for at least a stretch to fully enjoy its beauty from different points of view. If you would like to extend the hike you could consider the ascent to Colletto di Valscura , mountain pass at 2526 meters that connects the Riofreddo Valley with the Gesso Valley and the Park Maritime Alps.
After having crossed the western and southern shores of the lake, take the marked path that with long hairpin bends overcomes stony ground and steep traverses until you reach the top with the beautiful view of the Argentera Massif and, below, the Lower Valscura Lake.
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